Savile Row – The Evolution and Revolution of Bespoke Tailoring
What’s it all about? Why is London the epicentre for men’s suits? I made a visit to Savile Row to find out.
Known as the “golden mile of tailoring” where men travel from near and far to be fitted for bespoke tailored suits, one has to go back to it’s rich historical beginnings to truly understand the significance of Savile Row not only on British culture but it’s global impact on men’s fashion.
Savile Row is a small street that runs off Regent Street in Mayfair’s Picadilly Circus. The street was first designed by architect Daniel Garret during 1731-1735 and was originally known as Savile Street, part of the Burlington Estate.
Tailors started opening up shops on the Row in 1803. In 1806 James Poole opened Henry Poole & Co. on Savile Row and is known today as the founder of Savile Row. His son, Henry Poole, inherited the business in 1846 and in 1860 made a short smoking jacket for the Prince of Wales. This quickly became the fashion for the aristocracy at men’s private clubs. Once it spread to America, the name eventually evolved into the “tuxedo”. Clients included HIM Emperor Napolean, Duke of Edinburgh, Prince of Prussia, King Amadeus of Spain, and Tsar Alexander III of Russia.
Between 1842 and 1893, shops like Huntsman, Kilgour, and Dunhill, established themselves on the Row. By the 20th Century, Savile Row was still very much entrenched in traditional tailoring.
The first modern revolutionary change occurred in 1969 when Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton decided to partner up and open on Savile Row. They were soon to be known as the Nutters of Savile Row. With financial backing from British singer Cilla Black and other music industry people, their store became the first modern face of the Savile Row establishment in 120 years. Their fashionable style was built upon the flared jacket, wide lapels and parallel trousers. Clients included Elton John, Mick and Bianca Jaggar. They brought Savile Row into the modern era of the time attracting a younger, more forward thinking clientele making the Row more accessible.
More revitalization of the old establishment on Savile Row later developed in the 1990’s with designer tailors Richard James, and Ozwald Boateng.
Richard James, who’s Savile Row’s shop opened in 1992, is known for his more fashion oriented suits with bold colours and patterns which earned him a celebrity following that included Mark Ronson, Tinie Tempah, David Cameron, Sir Paul McCartney, Pierce Bronsnan, Tom Cruise and P. Diddy. His modern marketing approach led to Saturday openings. He now has two stores; one for bespoke suits and the other for ready to wear collections. His suits can be bought at Harrods, Selfridges, Bloomingdales and Barney’s.
Ozwald Boateng further changed the history of Savile Row. Boateng began by selling his first collection to a men’s store in Covent Garden in the 1980’s. He then opened his first studio on Portobello Road in 1991. In 1994, under the mentorship of Tommy Nutter, he had his first runway show collection during Paris Fashion Week, making history as the first tailor to have a show in Paris. He also became the first Black British tailor to open a shop on Savile Row in 2005 after moving his shop from Vigo Street. Boateng combines a precision cut tailored suit with a high fashion aesthetic by utilising fabrics such as velvets, mohair, and Ghanian prints in rich jewelled tones. He is a master at combining colour palettes for suit/shirt/ties ensembles that break the mold in tailored suits which has become his trademark. His suits are popular with Tony Blair, Barack Obama, Jaimie Foxx, Will Smith, Richard Branson, Lewis Hamilton, David Beckham, and Ralph Fiennes. He has won many fashion awards and received an OBE in 2006.
In 2008, two city of London Bankers, James Sleater and Ian Meiers, opened the Cad and the Dandy after being made redundant during the financial crash. In 2010 they began collaborating with British boxer, Chris Eubank, who designs a range for the brand. The Cad and the Dandy make suits for the city’s professionals and have received praise and recognition for their high quality customer service.
Female tailor Kathryn Sargent rose to head cutter at Gieves and Hawkes before opening her own Kathryn Sargent Bespoke Tailoring shop on Savile Row in 2016 becoming the first woman owner on the Row. This house, which caters to both men and women, has single-handedly brought Savile Row into the 21st Century. The revolution continues.
Savile Row Shops
Anderson & Sheppard, Bernard Weatherill, Cad and Dandy, Charlie Allen, Dunhill, Edward Sexton, Gieves & Hawkes, Huntsman, Nutters. Henry Poole, Kilgour, Maurice Sedwell, Norton & Sons, Richard Anderson, Richard James, Oswald Boateng, Tom Baker London, Welsh & Jefferies, Timothy Everest, Alexander McQueen.
